What I'd like on the 2017 Rover

1. Linkage steering
2. Vertical handlebars (with wrist rests)
3. Flip toggle gear shifters in the top of handlebars
4. Patterson or Schlumpf as a manufacturer-installed option for IGH machines, or 3-sprocket set up front for the external cassette option.
5. Front integrated post. Required for parts of #4, but always handy regardless.


  • 6. Tubeless tires

    ¬ ITL
  • Now let's not go overboard ;-)
  • Seriously, if they put out a version like this in Rover, I'd buy it. The only reason I didn't go with the Tour II (which has most of my wants) was because of the 400 pound capacity of the Rover.
  • edited October 2016
      I wanted a Rambler. Two fellas from TT tried to get me to buy a Rambler saying the Rover would only hold me back, and that the Rambler was capable of 375# though was undocumented.

      Was tempting... yet I'm not about to wear spandex out riding, and then there's your water bottles, spare gear and pack, and clothing will take up that load limit past 375#. Where the Rover is rated at 400#, extra gear/clothing/water shouldn't make much of a difference unless flying down a serious brake and cranking on the brakes.

      To be quite frank, I'd be terrified going past 18 MPH as it is. Maybe a year from now I'll laugh at this comment. I do wished there was a conversion kit to add 3 gears up front, 8 in the back, and 24 wheel upgrade.

      Is it that since the Rover/Rambler ride up higher that makes them handle strangely, and perhaps sititng down loader makes handling easier?


    ¬ ITL
  • Lower would probably be easier or less scary, but in truth my top speed was only when I hit 22 on a downhill and it didn't last long.

    Those speed demons do it on the roads, not trails.

    Plus, did you ever properly loosen your steering? My top compression nuts were too tight, making steering jerky. After I watched some TT videos, I fixed that and now speed is less scary with smooth steering.

    Holy crap my dog is asleep behind my neck having a nightmare. Ouch!
  •   Yeah, I loosened them a few weeks back. Wasn't nearly as jerky then, but two wheels steering is A LOT DIFFERENT than one wheel steering. One an MTB one is leaning on the handlebar and you move more into curves and such. Rover is a lot different, and leaning doesn't have the same feeling.

      Rode a motorcycle for over 25 of my younger years, and I still lean in a car on corners. :P

    ¬ ITL
  • You're sitting high on that trike and you are a large person. Your center of gravity is extremely high.
    You probably need to ride more to get a feel for the steering.
    Remove the king pin fasteners and grease everything.
  • edited October 2016
      Thanks @TCEd

      Since I'd have to purchase some grease, as I don't have a shop anymore, what would you recommend?

    ¬ ITL
  • Yeah I've been wondering the same thing. What grease do we use?
  • Guys, do a Google search for, terratrike kingpin. There is plenty of info out there.
  •   Oh boy, more homework to do when I get home from work. :)

    ¬ ITL
  • Info, yes. Pictures, no
  • Let's try to keep in mind that the Rover is supposed to be the cheapest model. It just also happens to be the only one for us FOG's who need a 400 pound rating.
  •   I concur on the flags, suspension options, and perhaps wider tires - specially on the drive/power wheel. Something like a Bigfoot aggressive tread back there.

      Turbo Boost would be really cool, so yeah, an electric motor upgrade option from the dealer or the dealer's pimping out shack err department.

      Oh, and them upside triangle flags with TerraTrike logo on there, with reflective trim, and custom flag mounts for the luggage rack offered.

    ¬ ITL
  • TT needs to open a "Manufacturer's Pimping" shop.
  • Yeah. I came late to the party and never got to access UT's stuff for TT. Now I think TerraCycle actually has more/better stuff I could use on my TT.

    Face it, I NEED a front post. I've done the Patterson and even Schlumpf calculations, and really I need a front post (derailer) and tensioner to properly get the 3 lower gears I want plus the 4 or so higher. But without UT making those posts, we're left with jury-rigged ideas and nothing solid and simple.
  • edited October 2016
      Me and my image concur on the post thingy. And it's going to take a while to shed these pounds off and pay the Rover off, so might as well make the best of it and find a post maker. ;)

    ¬ ITL
  • If he makes you one, please have him make 2 and I'll pay for it (and the shipping) if you like it.
  • Problem with front derailleur and post:


    I don't think the 45 deg angle is working for the derailleur cable. Can't shift gears.
  • edited December 2016
      Mine is 57.5° not 45° - Protractor was showing 60° as in this photo.


    Smart Tools (Android App)
    Used Smart Tools angle finder on the post; zeroed to the desktop, then laid the smartphone across and was showing 57.5°.

    ¬ ITL
  • Yes, Mark Powers. 63° I thought. The issue is with the cable stop. Too far to one side.
  • Did you see the rest of the pics? Rear derailleur, vertical handlebars, etc
  • edited December 2016
      You could put a tap in for a screw higher up between the cable stop and derailleur. Get a loose collar to slip over the screw, and put a nut on the inside of tube and lock tight it in.

      Or... use a pair of cable noodles maybe, or one of them goose-necked ones. That should give enough arc and maybe put a cable tie to hold the noodles closer to the tube - so as not to get cause on anything.

      Some of your photos I could not make sense of, and no hint in the picture's title or comments to explain what your audience should be looking at. One I thought was a vertical shifter? Another a T bracket on one?? Then I surmised some were DF bar ends placed on your wide-handlebars?

      Was very tired last night when I downloaded them. Will give them a closer look one of these days.  :)

    ¬ ITL
  • edited December 2016
    Silver vertical bars added from mountain bike. Brakes moved to the silver bars.
    Gear shifter for i8 stayed on right bar. Added 3 spd trigger shifter to left bar.
    Added long tensioner to back of trike, with hanger.
    Installed triple ring (22/32/42) and Power's post.
    Front derailleur is cheap ass Shimano Tourney, and angle isn't perfect for it but it seems to work.
    However, Power welded on a cable stop and if I use it, the wire is making an 80° bend at the stop. Trigger shifter takes hulk level strength to shift because of that angle.
    I need to move the cable to an angle straighter to the nut, but I have no clue how best to do that.
    @jamesr, Idahotraillizard linked to my pics in his comment. Can you take a peek?
  • edited December 2016
    Pic 203706 shows the nasty angle the wire is taking from the cable stop to the derailleur pull nut.

  • Ok, I just ordered a pair of these:

    Origin8 Alloy Cable Stop, Double / 28.6, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FT1LGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3cXyyb5RNCRZZ
  • I think the Origin8 stops I ordered, when placed lower down and rotated more towards to right side of the post, will work fine.

    I do like the idea of a derailleur that has its own cable stop, however. Good design philosophy.
  •   Okay, guess am gonna have to try my Paint skills.

      Have you considered using goose neck cable noodles?

    ¬ ITL
  • edited December 2016
      Or perhaps one like this?

    ¬ ITL
  •   Dual cables stops face-to-face

    ¬ ITL
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