Optimal Knee/Leg position for Rover

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  • been awhile, still: DeHavilland U-6 Series - eFlightManuals.com https://www.eflightmanuals.com/ITEM_EFM/SITEM_EFM.asp?cID=3669 Part No. : 55-1510-203-35P. SKU : 9016:R. Condition Code : R. Depot Maintenance Repair Parts & Special Tools. 1510-508-0604 (U-6A), 1510-950-6962 ...
  • Lol. Guys, if you want torque, try this. Nuclear reactor top hat - bolts and nuts heated to bright red hot and installed with only hand torque. No wrench. (But damn good gloves). After they cool down, the estimated torque on each bolt is over 1 million ft-lbs.
  • Yup, there's all sorts of ways to fasten things. Bet those reactor guys didn't use loctite.
  • Uh, nope
  • My god! Had my first scare! Just received my new rover x8 yerterday. Last night I read this thread and this morning before my first ever ride, checked the seat clamp to make shire it was tight enough. It was, or so I thought. I was riding on the street at 15-16mph seat fully reclined, when the seat decided to slide all the way forward. Suddenly I was horizontal, with traffic behind me. I had to keep pedaling to find somewhere to get off the road.

    I don’t trust my rover right now. I’ve never ridden a trike before. Never seen one in person before I ordered one. And I really liked my rover. As soon as I got on it, I loved it. But I will not ride it again until I do something about the seat slide. Guess I’ll try a hose clamp on a used tube.

    Any ideas?
  • Yes. I have one behind my seat clamp on the bar. I have more hand strength than my wife so when I tightened her seat clamp, she couldn't release it. Hope you have the strength to close it good n tight! :)
  • U clamps in front and behind the seat bracket stop it from ever moving again.
  • U clamps or the hose clamp, they both work. I have hose clamps in front of and behind my seat clamp so it can't move forward or backward. Make those host clamps TIGHT.
  • I have the one behind as I used to loosen clamp to slide the seat fwd when I toted Trike under my truck cap.
  • edited September 2017
    Lost a lot of photos from a recent hard drive failure, so this is the best I had on the subject. Used two 2" squared U bolts with flat plates across top & bottom. Leather strips in between the plates and the boom for protection. Seat hasn't moved in a year. :)

    36784475160_2558f779e6_z.jpg

    ¬ ITL
  • I have two ordinary hose clamps, fore and aft, for over four years and the seat hasn't moved at all. Don't know what the fuss is all about.
  • We are lucky to have TerraTrike dealer close to us & is a plethora of information. We researched all the pros & cons on the Rover before purchase so are aware of this situation; prefer the hose clamp method. As long time mountain bikers we realize that sometimes you just have to “tweak” something to make it all better. Now you know what to do ..... RIDE!
  • edited June 19
    Another thing that gets missed is putting a thin zip tie between the booms that come together. Supposedly that removes the occasional **CRACK!**noise. It's loud the first couple of times. /VBG

    ¬ ITL
  • I second the zip tie between the forward crossbars and the frame. I thought I had broken my Rover the first time I went up an incline with a twist.
  • Never heard of that before.
  • I have heard that sound when the Trike drops onto a dirt road between the paved bike path. It’s a rocking motion that does it. Explain this fix it method more. Do you mean using the zip tie as a shim?
  • I've heard the creaking but I never knew there was a fix.
  • The zip just separates the front crossbar section from the rear frame section. The loud "crack" we are hearing is really the two frame sections rubbing together under twist stress. The zip tie merely serves to separate them by just the width of the tie and thus prevent this "rub".
  • such jive! install the grub screws greased, tether the imagination.
  • @JamesR I'm sorry - what language are you speaking?
  • Finn and James have unique dialog.
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