Shortening chain

My wife brought home a Schwinn chain tool. Methinks all chains are equal. Package says it works on single speeds as well as 5-7 speeds. Will this tool work on the Rover?? Far from home and have some tools with. Thanks.

Comments

  • Any chain tool should suffice.
    Some want it the smallest and lightest weight. While that is good, make sure it isn't too small that you cannot adequately use the tool when needed. Oh, and try practicing with some extra links occasionally.

    ¬ ITL
  • Anyone reuse the pins? One YouTube video says they are weakened when popped out and can fail easier when reused. I do have the chain off Trike now and will clean it well when I get back to cabin. In town I have internet connection. At cabin none. Hope it goes well as I want to try their bike path up here. Crushed limestone. I did put some dry lube on chain a few days back and it quieted right down. Then I rode on a dirt road and it started slipping and getting noise again.
  • all chains are not equal. not possible to re-use pins on KMC Z72 8 Speed. you will need masterlinks for chain joining, either kmc or sram. good to have chainlink pliers. chain-slip has nothing to do with lube, tauten the chain by moving rear wheel aft or slipping the boom forward. handy trike toolset http://www.parktool.com/product/i-beam-mini-fold-up-with-chain-tool-ib-3?category=Multi-Tools
  • I've been reusing the pins on my Z72 for a while without issue... Just don't push them all the way out, just enough to pry the links apart has been enough to put them back together again.
  • think park tools sums it up: Reusing a Rivet If you don’t have a spare master link or connecting rivet, it is possible to reuse a rivet as a last resort. Break the chain at the damaged link, and push out a second rivet just enough to remove the damaged segment of chain. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/on-the-ride-chain-repair#article-section-3
  • But it's not optimal - try getting new ones if you can.
  • Well I made it thru the 10.9 mile path from Vanderbilt to Wolverine MI. Half as fast and twice as long as the upright a few years ago. Knees were screaming at me the last mile. Chain was fine. Are
    there two master links on a Rover chain?
  • possible. trike probably came with chain cut for medium boom along with 7-link piece of chain if needed for max boom extension
  • If I recall correctly, it takes 3 packages of kmc-z72 to make a chain for the Rover. This would indicate 3 master links are used to connect them.
  • Thanks for the help. Looks like they sell some that are easier to install.
  • Just measured my links at 3/8x13/16". Edge to edge. Is that a normal size or did I not measure correctly?
  • this end of the world, sram and kmc 8-gear chain plate externals 26/32 long x 11/32 wide. 9/32 external plate spacing over the rivets. 1/2 inch center-to-center at the rivets, 3/32 roller thickness. kmc uses a double-sided mushroom head on the rivet. you destroy a perfectly good mushroom by driving the pin out. re-use of pin inadvisable unless interested in stoppies due to introducing a fail point in the driveline. clarification to previous opinion: it cannot be done [safely].
  • edited May 2017
    Have broken and reused chains for the past 30 years never had a failure at that pin, always use a red sharpie or nail polish to mark the spot. In fact My go to road bike currently has a KMC X10sl hollow pin chain with 3800 miles on it that has no quick link because I dropped it in the grass. If possible I would always use a quick link but the idea that it is somehow unsafe is laughable. Shimano chains use a pin that should not be reused but even then in a pinch you can just remove a link connect with a chain tool and you are good to go. The trick is to overdrive the pin just a touch and then push it back just a touch so the joined link will be as supple as the rest.
  • This silver Rover has few miles/hours on it so I doubt the chain is bad. We have to take chains off to clean them due to the tubes. Then I will measure for stretching/wearing out of parts. Do you think the tubes collect junk as well?
  • They sure do. It's a good idea to clean them out periodically, too. All that dirt and gunk that's on your chain is also deposited inside the chain tube, and it just lays it back onto the chain if you don't clean it up.

    I don't think I would use brake cleaner to clean it up, though. The tube might melt....
  • I have the marks lined up. Had to back it 'cap' out to the left. I can see threads below the cap now. I had tightened it to the right but was going the wrong way as the lined up at 5 instead.
  • With a lot of threads showing, makes me nervous that it is loose and make back out more from riding. Does this mean the cable is stretched out?
  • i use nylon cord couple feet longer than the tube. tie a nut on one end, drop it through the tube so it come out the other end. tie a bit of rag on the other end, well-soaked in dawn and water, draw it through. depends what was used as chainlube, might take many draws to clear the grunge.
  • yep. too many threads showing on the adjuster stem, you can put the shifter in 1st, screw the adjuster all the way in [clockwise]. take the cable off the nexus, vise-grip the end for tensioning, and move the stop-nut exactly 4.0 inches from the end of the housing as measured at the clamp screw center and re-tighten. re-assemble, recheck the index mark alignment in gear 4, shouldnt have to use adjuster.

    good time with cable off the nexus to pull the housing, check cable for frays, wipe it with wd-40 if it looks good, re-assemble before repositioning cable nut.
  • This is hilarious! No you do not have to remove the chain to clean the tubes put a strip or fabric soaked with degreaser through one of the links and use the chain to pull it through the tubes. repeat till clean.
  • do you actually do it that way, jeffacme? seems would be a bit difficult to rinse off the grunge doing multiple passes with multiple tubes.

    by any chance, are you the same jeff-type banned along with captainbob by bentrider? your style seems quite similar.
  • If you are cleaning the chain already, the odds are strong you have already opened the chain up, and removed it from the tubes. In which case, it makes no sense to not do a thorough cleaning as has already been outlined.

    You don't want to drag a clean chain through dirty tubes to clean those tubes out, cuz then you have to clean the chain again, and clean the tubes again, etc...

    but hey, if you like doing something time and time again, more power to you...

    I know one guy that pushes a .410 shotgun cleaning swap on a rifle cleaning kit through his tubes to clean the gunk out of them. Seems to work well for him, at least... I'm not advocating it, just saying it's one method that could be used...

    @jeffacme has been around here off and on for a while. And I think he is the same as on BROL...
  • JamesR- I took the shift cable off and measured, and it was 4" already from nut to the end of the cable housing. Now what?
  • @FINN58
    if the adjuster is screwed all the way in while taking the measurement, you should be good to go. re-attach cable and in gear 4 index marks should be closely aligned.

    may take a couple passes to get it exact but you are close to being an old pro at this stuff.
  • Nope. I had to back the adjuster out again to line up the marks. I'll try again tomorrow as it is raining out now.
    We tried a hitch platform carrier from
    Harbor Freight yesterday to carry the 2nd Trike but they are too narrow. Returned it today and am getting a steel channel type welded up locally.
    Save your time and don't try HF.
  • keep the faith! seemingly little things can make a difference, possible the end-caps on the cable housing not being tight against the housing ends or a tad of flex in the housing at the shifter end. could even be housing compression after assembly if not brand-new.

    you are at the magic moment, though. purpose of the adjuster is to make a specific distance between housing end and stop-nut. question: is it possible the cable, when installed, is not directly under the pulley-guard?

    worst case, you can set the nut about 3-7/8 and probably be spot-on with the re-install. this kinda fiddly can happen easily enough on a new cable, housing, shifter install.

    i have a 16 and, until recently, a 20-inch nexus wheel. you would think wheelswaps between trikes would not require adjustment of cable length, however . . .

    one thing that seems to have made a difference in the adjusting attempts is to have the cable housing tightly zip-tied to the cargo rack in 2 places to maintain a constant. have a feeling that the housing loop, if free to move, alters the stop-nut to cable-end the few millimeters that requires too much adjuster length.
  • Got it set. Moved it twice and tweaked it with the knob. Thanks for all the help bnow gotta go riding!
  • @JamesR If you wash your bike/trike regularly it is usually a five minute process I rarely remove the chain to clean it as for the tubes just a pass or two will do it provided you keep your ride clean. No I was not banned ever from any forum. As far as style is concerned I do have an issue with people providing bad information and claiming you cannot reuse links and pins runs counter to my last 30 years of riding experience. I agree quick links are a great step forward but that does not mean it is unsafe to reuse pins especially in a pinch like my situation where a quick link half ended up in the grass and getting a new one just wasn't needed because a chain tool was handy.
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