Rubbing brake pad



  • the gold standard:

    has crimper for the cable end caps. you will also need an awl or such to re-round the cable ends, clear out the plastic. me? new housing, new cables - new cables, new housings. overkill but me style. cut em long, nibble to what fits nicely.

    the catching can be due to a few mm cable slack. should be able to get years of use from a cable if the trike is not left in the rain. water gets in the housing you can get curious braking. i blow the housings out with pressurized wd-40, hang the things to dry with paper towel underneath to see if i have any grunge aboding within.

    if re-using using old cables, no kinks, run it through your fingers tightly in both directions. if you draw blood from a strand, definitely time for new cable.

    dont care for the stock housing length so i do generous curves, zip ties, and use flexible brake noodles as a usual upgrade.
  • The ones I bought are like 60”. Dont know if there is a plastic sleeve inside.
    Wish they would offer a 20” cable. Thanks.
  • one size fits all didnt suit so went to the lbs and had them cut their bulk housings about 2 feet longer than what i thought i measured (not one of my strong points) and nibble away after settling on the routing. they would toss in the end caps and cable beads for free - asked for twice what was needed as a just in case. for derailleur or nexus housing and cable, would buy the packaged set for tandem trikes and whittle away. would go through a buncha cable ties getting the routing just right.

    cutting this stuff with a dremel ends up with small sharp particles littering the place. a monster dike that can handle stainless deforms the housing and flattens cable far beyond what the park cable cutter does.

    for pretty housings - 14 colors to choose from -
  • edited March 12
    I got a set of the Jagwire Pro brake kit and two shifter kits in ORANGE!! They make my RAT look great! One way to cut and make the cable housing work correctly is to cut the housing with whatever you have, dremel wheel, dykes, whatever. You can use a wire crimper to round out the cable end, then insert and awl into the end to make the ends round; and then use a file to make the ends flat, and de-burred. IF you have a grinder you can do it on there also. The above mentioned Park tool is the primo model, and yes expen$ive I agree. I have an few years ago older model not as nice but it does the job. Look around there are other brands and models, Pedros, BC, Jagwire, Nashbar, etc. Again you can cut it with whatever and then use an awl and file to smooth the housing and make the ends perpendicular to the housing. You can also place a drop of solder on the ends of the inner cables. Or I use a short piece of out small diameter electrical wire insulation, where I take the inner metal wire out and insert my inner cable end thru the insulation and use a drop of silicon seal to hole it in. That makes it easy when you have to remove the inner for any reason and you do not have to cut off the crimped cable end. I don't use them. I use the insulation. Hope this helps.

    Best wishes! Wish you lived close by I would show you how to do it.

    Here is a video with some ideas. There are more on YouTube.
  • Yeah I saw those pretty colors. Maybe a lbs will have a blue. Using/bought black to replace originals. Just need to find the housing caps today locally. Going to try my Dremel with diamond wheel. I’ll save the shavings for ya’ll. Have a guud day. Thanks for the tips.
  • Two new 30” brake housing and cables for $10. At Breakaway Bicycles. Wow. Tips and all. Wow. Don’t have to monkey with mine. Wow to the 3rd
  • Caps on white housing are NOT crimped in place like the ones that came on Trike. Operates smoothly now.
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