Rack I built

13

Comments

  • If you bought a strong dual hitch bracket, you’re wife’s bike could hang above while my rack could slide in below. My rack uses 44” of square stock steel. Yours would hang out further to make room for the width of her DF. How do u transport both now?
  • Jrobiso2, the Alpaca carrier can handle DFs and trikes. I know it's expensive but well worth it. It's very sturdy but it does rattle in the receiver. I'm still trying to figure out how to stop that.
  • What about a small utility trailer? One with a ramp to make loading bikes easy. $50 trailer plate fee in Michigan. One time fee.
  • A really cheep rack could be built out of a wood 2x2 with pvc pipe split using a saw. Those could be attached with lag bolts n warshers, or bolts all the way thru. This may last a year in AZ that doesn’t get rain.
  • Finn59, I had to buy a 10' piece of 3" PVC pipe to make my cupholder. If I get to the ride in Michigan this summer, I'll bring it for you. I have no use for it. That could be your project next winter.
  • Big cup,eh?
  • Since I bought it in Sep 2016, we've put them both inside the E150 van.
    I just got done talking to my wife, and she wants to keep using this method (regardless of the crap mileage the van gets). So no rack. Oh well. We'll see how the mileage kills the pocketbook come June, when we're going to Little Rock for a reunion of the crew of my sub, the USS Baltimore (SSN-704). I hear they have some nice trails there.
  • The bikes r out of the weather if a shower comes thru.
  • Once spring hits her Trike will be out in her van til the fall.
  • I just watched a video of a man loading his Trike on a single rack. It was a vertical thing that was attached to a truck hitch. It was laid back toward the ground and he pushed his trike onto it then pushed the rack to the vertical position. Very little audio. Could not tell if it was a home built. Found video while looking for Alpaca carriers. Don’t know if this would be easier to load than an Alpaca. Enjoy.
  • Hitchrider.com Has a few. One even
    carries a DF and a trike. Will wonders
    never cease. At the start of that video it was stated that his car was ‘too low”,
    and that he borrowed a truck to record
    the video.
  • But they are even more expensive than Alpaca.
  • Ugh. I don't want to have as much invested in the carrier as I do the bikes!
  • Sadly transporting a trike or pair of trikes will be a limiting factor for buyers. People want to be mobile and explore areas away from home yet don't want to add a trailer or unwieldy trike rack onto the rear of their vehicle or want to buy a new vehicle just to haul the trikes/bikes.
    It seems every example of trike rack available is a bastardization of a traditional bike rack that's complicated and/or forces the person to lift the trike onto the rack. Also most racks where the trike is transported across the rear of the vehicle has a good chunk of the trike sticking out into traffic.
  • Jrobiso2, the Alpaca carrier can handle DFs and trikes. I know it's expensive but well worth it. It's very sturdy but it does rattle in the receiver. I'm still trying to figure out how to stop that.

    Many hitches have an 'anti rattle' which is a bolt w circle loop head and a threaded handle that sits inside the hitch tube. The pin that goes through the hitch goes through the circle head and after hooking up the hitch you simply tighten down the handle so it tightens against the receiver hitch pin and voila no more rattle
  • I know that Alpaca sold something like that but I had already spent too much to buy it.
  • This is the basic aluminum rack I started with and bought 1 1/2" aluminum "L"/angles and made the rest. https://www.homedepot.com/p/CURT-500-lbs-Capacity-Bolt-Together-Aluminum-Cargo-Carrier-with-2-in-Folding-Shank-18100/205631477
  • I think you posted Picts before, in a garage, of that rack. How did u attach
    the appendages onto main rack?
  • Finn59 wrote: »
    I think you posted Picts before, in a garage, of that rack. How did u attach
    the appendages onto main rack?

    Yes you are right Finn the pics are on page one of this thread.

    Drilled holes in the "L" angle pieces on the ends; and in the front cross "L" piece drilled the aluminum rack to bolt it to the rack. The "back" L piece was drilled to use the Original rack bolts that hold the rack front and back "support steel piece". Used bolts with washers, and nylon lock nuts to attach all the pieces. Then "shoe-goo" on the ends of the bolts so the nuts can not move and the rack doesn't loosen. I'll take some closer pictures of the attachment points and post them. It is really very simple to build. You only lift half of the trike at one time. I lift the rear wheel onto the rack slide it back some and then hold the trike from the boom and lift the front wheels into the wheel slots. She rides very secure.
  • This is the basic aluminum rack I started with and bought 1 1/2" aluminum "L"/angles and made the rest. https://www.homedepot.com/p/CURT-500-lbs-Capacity-Bolt-Together-Aluminum-Cargo-Carrier-with-2-in-Folding-Shank-18100/205631477

    What length aluminum pieces did you get? And what are the dimensions you used for the carrier? I want to make one also. Thanks
  • My steel is 44” and the 3 channels for the tires are 47”. You can remember 48
    for all four any that will cover it. Our two are Rovers. Nice thing is you can adjust the channels in or out with the square U bolts. The 2” steel tube you want to be careful if you are drilling a hole thru if you are going to run a pin or lock thru it. Once that is done no adjust that. I hand drilled the steel. No fun. Slide the steel in and put on the channels loosely. Measure width of trike. Wide point is either tires or grip
    ends. I started with the out channel to the end of the steel and went from there. Leave some room between wide point and trunk/hatch. Then mark your
    hole in the steel for the pin. Sorry I
    ramble. Good luck.
  • Boxmaster wrote: »
    This is the basic aluminum rack I started with and bought 1 1/2" aluminum "L"/angles and made the rest. https://www.homedepot.com/p/CURT-500-lbs-Capacity-Bolt-Together-Aluminum-Cargo-Carrier-with-2-in-Folding-Shank-18100/205631477

    What length aluminum pieces did you get? And what are the dimensions you used for the carrier? I want to make one also. Thanks

    Used four aluminum "L" angle pieces; 1 1/4", by .125 (1/8") thick. Two pieces are 16 1/2" long the other two are 36 1/2" long. Drill, bolt load trike go ride.
  • Just ordered my alum and steel locally this pm. Will be ready tomorrow. Build it
    then wait for the ice to melt from the north trails.
  • @Finn59 I may still hit you up for a build. Let me know how it goes for you.
  • I picked up my two pieces today. They had a punch that could go thru 1/2” steel. 5/8” hole. They had diff shapes also. But it would have crushed my tube. Ten tons of pressure. It is no fun
    drilling holes in steel, especially when the bit grabs. Steel better be clamped
    down.
  • 4’ channel is so close so if anyone is planning on building a tray rack measure between tires and add a foot.
    Go to 5 ‘ rails not four for a Rover. Carry on.
  • I split the aluminum down the middle with an old carbide table saw blade. Bro in law said a slow feed would work. It’s now only an inch high. 2” high looks better, safer. Will try it Tuesday if it warms like they forecast. What I said earlier about longer was to center those
    channels. I guess one could not center a 4’ rail to give some latitude.
  • FLA Bound- please keep the pvc pipe there so the lizards n snakes have a toy. I already have too much pvc pipe behind the shed. Thanks.
  • Jrobiso2-where are you in Michigan? And is there a hitch reciever on your van? Size? What size tires on your Trike?
  • No hitch yet on the 2002 E150 conv van. There's a place here in Fenton that can add one. Wiring already exists. Rover has 20" Marathons
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